Friday, 29 October 2010

Hubble, Bubble, Fur & Trouble

All Hallows Eve is an almighty Snore.Fest. For two reasons; (a) Mother dear never let me celebrate the Pagan festival &the moment I was allowed to attend a spook-shindig, I dressed as a broom (b) I'm in a wheel chair & I refuse to go as Lou & Andy from Little Britain.

But that's by the by.

As a child my most treasured programme was Bewitched. Viewed in snatched moments as Mother believed it would encourage odd behaviour. Sheltered life.

Oddly enough I'm now often compared to Endora, a compliment in my opinion. For my attitude, appearance and apparel.

Oh isn't she a doll?

Whilst the protective parent humoured me with a mini shop-spree, I spotted a fur that was Endora. Camel skin, poppers and leather. Hook, line & sinker. I needed it. Between trick or treat it certainly was the latter.

As the scrooge of Samhain I'm boycotting the night. (would however certainly consider altering my opinions if Katy Grand invited me to a ghoulish gala circa 2008 (below))


Since my eyes were treated to this flocculent fur, my slight adoration for taxidermy and fur have swum into every thought. Each contemplation consumed. The following snaps are cathartic. I shouldn't like it ... oh but I do. Maybe I could live with faux?


Yes Victoria, fur = murder. Stay strong.


But JPG did it so well ...


I suppose I could humour the protestors



WAH I want one


I think I'm in love




Oh wait ... that was lust. This is love.

Thursday, 28 October 2010

Candied Chic.

Chocolate is the first luxury. It has so many things wrapped up in it:
Deliciousness in the moment, childhood memories, and that grin-inducing
feeling of getting a reward for being good” Mariska Hargitay

So, fashion is the next luxury? Debatable. Imagine a fusion of them both. Delicious. Messy.

Oh contraire! The Salon du Chocolat proves there is a confectionary celestial. &he has a keen eye for fashion design.

Bringing together designers and over 130 global chocolatiers the Salon Du Chocolat is the worlds largest fashion event dedicated to chocolate. Celebrated only yesterday, surely that means there's still a lot to be consumed ...

It's like Forrest said; 'life is like a box of chocolates – you never know what you're gonna get'. I'll hedge my bets and take a few if it's all the same to you Gumpy.

Gee, if it's Hargitays secret then pass me the whole tin.



Irene Salvador is the cocoa queen at the 16th show



Actress Nubia Esteban. Dressed by Baileys and
Carole Dichampt (the latter = not as important)



Irene Salvador at the 15th Show. She must get a
heck of a lot of free confiture, not that I'm jealous, of course



Christina Maroco in the 14th show ... Wethers Originals anyone?



Pauline Delpech at the 14th candy celebration

Wednesday, 27 October 2010

Sickly Meringue Pie.

Just Style has introduced a new logo. Can't say I'm sure whether it's an improvement or not. As for the website, it's old school to be polite.

Occasionally the mood to rifle through back catalogues takes me by suprise. And on this restless afternoon that's exactly what it did.

An article on Alfred Angelos new venture tickled my fancy.

Remember when our ambition to be Disney princesses was all that consumed us? Watching the greats; Cinderella, Beauty and the Beast, Aladdin. & just assuming our Prince Charming's would rock up in a few years?



Having mice & rodents seamstresses to take off some of the pressure of a home made dress ...

Talking to crockery about the woes of sharing the house with a Jekyll and Hyde type of guy ...

Remember when that fairy tale dream ended?

We may all hold onto our memories fondly, however some 'princesses' never grow up. Cue Alfred Angelo, founded in the 1930s AA is now one of the worlds leading wedding dress makers, collaborating with Disney to launch a collection of gowns 'for women who grew up dreaming of a fairy tale wedding'. We're not talking fancy dress here. I wish. There's a video to prove it.


Snow White (apparently)


Jasmine inspired dress (nice magic carpet)

Strangely, no pink, sparkles, wand attachments or fairy godmothers attached. Not even a meringue extraordinaire fest, pains me to say they're quite wearable. Which made me look beyond the concept. Disney. With a wedding at Disneyland being over $12,000. I think this is the only slice of Disney Wedding pie most middle aged princesses are going to consume.

I'm reliving my memories … 90s nostalgia is the bomb (ref). & to clarify, Barbie is exempt from my critical cranky typing.



Tuesday, 26 October 2010

Gimme a W, Gimme a A, Gimme a H ...

WAH. I want to re-create this.



I'm ashamed to say this was stolen from FB. Tut tut tut.

Jewellery Takes People's Minds off your Wrinkles.

Well said Sonja.

Sunday saw me being wheeled by my ever-dependable lover boy to The Great Northern Contemporary Craft Fair. Despite my shock at his placing me behind a buggy as I was 'in the way', I quickly lost the attitude when I was visually stimulated by everything in my eye-line (in the chair and on crutches if you please). I wrote about it for Tout Nouveau

There was a brand spanking new section for Great Northern Graduates. They certainly filled the boots of this impressive title. Cherry picked by Kelda Savage, these are thee names to watch out for.

The area was electric -the energy almost tangible. Despite being on crutches, even my spirits were lifted. The excitement at showcasing such a variety of techniques, ideas, inspiration and media was the perfect addition to the fair. These new designers work was displayed in such synergy whilst maintaining their own unique attributes to the area.

In terms of what I desire and hanker after, there was one clear winner. Her name? Grace Hamilton. Her work? To die for.

Straight from Vogue, Harpers, ID, POP, the works. This work's one suave kitty-katcollection. With claws.

It got me thinking. I love jewellery with attitude, enough pretentiousness to lure the fash-pack veterans but enough likability to cause a Topshop totty stir demanding a replica 'like, totally quick yah?'


The Ultimates;

Alexis Bittar


Tom Binns

Pamela Love

Lucy Hutchings

Eddie Borgo
&also Mawi, but I'm not having it as an ultimate yet.


New life plan; covet jewelry, ignore bills.

Monday, 25 October 2010

The SPG of Style.

I recall gaining the visual horror of atrocious jeggings (worse than the Ed Hardy delight below) on Saturday night.


Unknowingly brewing about this trash-fash I wrote a few lines on my experience.

Tipsy.

Ne'r a super idea.

"Oscar Wilde tired of fashion. Naming it a trivial sort of intolerable ugliness.

Thousands of teeny-boppers parents believe it an insufferable past time, conveniently allowing their own memories to slip.

Millions of 'tweens' believe it a necessity. Trends, publications, the joining of two nouns to create fads; jeggings.

Til you're fashion knowledge enters its Wintour. You're more tragically ironic than Coco Sumner."


Thursday, 21 October 2010

What's Your Type?


I love reading.
It inspires me.
I particularly like when it inspires me visually.

Sometimes it's not the message, sometimes there's no 'message' at all, it is the presentation.

Stumbled across this hardback book, Alphabets: A Miscellany of Letters. It explores the origins of our alphabet, from hieroglyphics to braille.

It's one to gift 'creatives' with (Xmas idea. Done) - from traditional to graffiti artists, from graphic to fashion illustrators. Broad but specific, a legitimate oxymoron on reading.

It's visual vocabulary, which delves into how we came to be left with these 26 glorious letters.

I'd consider fashion to be visual vocab also. It infers how someone is feeling, how trend-led, or leading, they are and right through to how disposable their income is.

Mixing the two; typography & fashion. A force is created, wielding power and creating its own message.

This is a pleasant little font palette I found. Fabulously concocted letters infused with fashion.



It contrasts greatly with the strong presentation of the two united on the runway via Viktor & Rolf. How devilish and dominant.



It pains me to say that I've not a strong graphic eye. Yet, I express my admiration for those who sucessfully demonstrate theirs so robustly. From Marc Jacobs's Sprouse signature Day-Glo graffiti (in its hey-day that is), to Katharine Hamnett's iconic tees. Both coveted and re-packaged.

Then you have the renowned fashion typography; Sans Serif for Vogue, Hoefler & Frere-Jones's Didot for Harpers.

In my (most unprofessional) opinion, I have two favourites; Chloe and Hermes.

Both very different, but infer a similar message of luxury and security. If I had to choose, it'd be Hermes; the colour lifts me, the horse and buggy have such a regal/heritage laden air & the caps mean business.

I've mentioned my plans of a website in the near future & I'm beginning to think it needs some work.


Tuesday, 19 October 2010

An Optical Illustration.

3 weeks down. 3 to go.

I've changed my tune. Despite my consistent frustration at not being able to do the basics, aka walk, I've found that in my annoyance, appreciation is born.

I've a Business plan. I won't bore with the details, but my passion, optimism & dedication is ever-present. The site will be live around December. I've began to write for a few websites (the favourite being Tout Nouveau), alleviating some stress & allowing my mind to wander, freeing some pent-up annoyance at not dedicating time to ones passions; writing, reading and the arts. By doing just the latter.

It's energising to know you 'know' about the industry, even if it is only scratching the creative surface; what's in Vogue, who's out of vogue, who is avant-garde and what'll do the worst damage to my credit card ... that auld malarkey. I never want to stop learning, which sounds ridiculously geek-like, now ironically chic-like.

My University course regarded itself as an ' Fashion Arts Degree' but I never felt pushed to be creative artistically, not in a drawing sense (cannot draw a stick man), but in a way that I never gained a true appreciation for how the industry got to where it is today. I've learnt that I'll never be in the know all the time, but that's the beauty of discovery. The thrill of the new.

When I was in NY, I was mesmerised by the ambience, the entirety of the city. It truly is the jack of all trades and master of all. Incomparable. Indescribable. I saw fashion via exhibitions, shows, stalls, the streets, galleries - the place oozed with it, intentional or not.

The once place I still can't get off my mind, is Argosy Book Store. Specialising in rare books prints and maps, it is heaven. Tucked away in 116 East 59th Street, I almost walked past it to get to Bergdorf Goodman, but a flash of intense purple stole a gaze from my transfixion on my destination, a nonchalant brush stroke held my attention, and a recognisable brand typography drew me towards the otherwise run-of the-mill doorway.


Marc Boahn for Chrisitan Dior.
1985.
Spectacular illustration.
Accompanied by the picture of Isabelle Adjani at the launch gala for 'Poison' (above).

I intake air quickly. I dash. I'm stopped.

As the door opens (painfully) slowly I am ushered into a lift, manned by a bookish boy, asking where he should shove me out (just the impression I got). I say "the fashion ..." "illustration drawings" he interjected. Was my intention that visible?

2nd floor, I waltzed with the 'olde world maps', was aghast at the autograph collection, felt like I had entered another lifetime, one full of mystery and regalities, anticipating a suit of armour or an American indian savage to leap from the abundance vivid prints. I was visually stumped.

A girl gravitated towards me. With a glint in her eye, she knew what I had come for.

Led to a leather masterpiece I was presented with over 20 files, full of original fashion illustrations, from 1925 until 1999, ordered chronologically, each one taking my breath away.

If elation were to have an image next to it in the dictionary, surely my face would be slapped on it.

Givenchy, Dior, Lacroix, YSL, Lanvin, Balenciaga, the whole kit and kaboodle.

All stamped&numbered, with pieces of material attached and a photo of the outfit on the catwalk. Never have I held so much awe in my being whilst maintaining silence.

2 hours ensued. The price tags were phenomenal, though not extreme. But in my obvious desperation to own a drop of the nectar, the assistant noted there were photocopies, for around a quarter of the price.

SOLD.

Givenchy, 1986 catwalk.


Shoulder pads - check
Lace - check
Mary Janes - check
That eighties fabulous vibe - check

As I delved into the depths of Vogue's site earlier, I came across the Art in Fashion section. &it happened again, that quickening of breath and what I assume a menopausal flush feels like.

With the blurb;

'Before fashion photography, illustrators were integral to the industry - their work featured throughout the best magazines. Today, fashion illustrations appeal to collectors as art in their own right. Our exclusive collaboration with Fashion Illustration Gallery makes them available to buy here.'

Good golly miss molly, you hit the nail on the head. Indeed, whilst I'm supposed to be researching for my own website, I've been transfixed by the wonder of Vogue. Again. These jewels are windows into artistic souls, I need.

I've sat for hours over the years, pouring over books of fashion illustration. I've taken classes. I've interviewed students. Still I cannot seem to get a grip of the art, just an appreciation and intense thirst to develop my knowledge more

Perhaps my student studies weren't all that wasted.

Below is my favourite from the current Vogue gallery, it's by Jean-Philippe Delhomme, and it's from A/W 08 Dries. It's magical.

Tuesday, 12 October 2010

Bieber Brand-wagon.

Whatever next, Suri Cruise becoming the face of childrens UFC?

I almost fell out of of my wheel chair on reading about Justin Biebers new (world domination) venture. Nail varnish. I can cope (and embrace) JPGs Monsieur range, but he is his own, fearless brand ambassador -the 'enfant terrible dela mode' - toast of creative circles, adored by the fashion fearless, and, more importantly, antithesis to Justin Bieber. The clean cut foetus is soon to release a biography, already has a fashion line (it hurt to type that), and accessory catalogue that includes everything but the kitchen sink; lunchboxes, Christmas cards, charm bracelets, bandannas and cuddly toys.

When will the pushy-pushy teen-bopper music business learn. Talent is a gift. Musical talent should sell records & possibly a few posters for the little ladies to kiss before bedtime. Fashion talent should sell fashion, or fashion related/mouldable products. I venerate logical extensions of talent; JPG has teamed up with Roche Bobois, the chic French furniture firm; I'm particulalry excited about the idea of his collection including "a sectional sofa with sex appeal: mattress-like modules that incorporate my signature tattoo prints and sailor stripes, as well as a portrait of lovers who are about to kiss. This sofa brings the bedroom into any room in your house." (Gaultier to Vogue). That makes sence. However, Bieber + nail varnish = madness.

I recall Pierre Cardin starting like this, probably the most famous name lending case. Look at that sob story.

In other news, I hang my unknowledgeable head. I have never stumbled upon United Nude before. I fell for the brand at first line:
This story begins with a broken heart. Rem's attempt to get the girl back was made by downsizing architecture to its smallest and most vulnerable scale, that of a woman's foot.'

Simply cannot wait to see in the (leather) flesh.

Monday, 11 October 2010

Popping out to get milk ...

Thats Llama milk, from Jeffreys.

On a recent trip to NY, I discovered, the grocery Yahweh. En route to the Met, I stopped in to get a coffee (naturally said in an OTT NY accent).

The Upper West Side schools had finished for the day & as
the sprogs dispersed, I've never seen so many Marc Jacobs, Mulberrys and Mcqeen totes, scarve and trinkets! It was at that moment, I knew Gossip Girl was no dramatisation.

As nannies stopped off for a lobster roll and perhaps a whimsically decorated cakes for their luggage, I had one question ... Waitrose who?

New Jeffreys open 172 Waverly Pl.

Fashion = presentation. Whether it be in apparel or food. It ALMOST topped off Harrods Food Hall and Libertys' Oyster Bar. But I'm patriotic like that.

Who Wants to tire of Caviar?


Who wants to be a Millionaire? ... I do.

I want flashy flunkeys & to wallow in champagne.

If I'm honest however, I'd just like to walk. It's such a snore fest being stuck in a wheel chair, feeling quite the geriatric & gaining far too many (sympathetic) stares.

If I had the ability to walk I'd like the following process to come to fruition; walking leads to needing shoes, and needing shoes requires a shopping trip which means an A/W style wardrobe bonanza. End.

Now, if I were a millionaire also? I would n'er bore of traipsing from store to store; embracing luxury and high street, brands in their infancy and heritage laden brands, classic fashion and fast fashion alike (or maybe I'd be a tad biased towards the classics, cough 2.5 Chanel).

To see relatively unknown brands launching in the UK always rings my investigative bell; whether it be in the form a pop-up shop (Pamela Hogg was my recent favourite) or a concession, such as Hi Panda, launching in Harvey Nics at the end of October. A heady cocktail of intrigue, fascination and awe clouds my judgement. My insomnia proves almost a blessing as I can research the brand, the values and the 'vibe'. I need to see it, feel it, touch it and feel the excitement that the Press Release said I would (yes, I am a sucker to propaganda). This one has tickled my fancy, not just because I have no limits to how many Hello Panda treats I can consume (discovered when at HKFW 2008), but because the brand is wearable, fresh and has also been given the thumbs up from the creme de la creme of editors (apologies Alexandra) Anna Wintour.

If the sell out at Paris' effortlessly cool Colette is anything to go by, I best skidaddle on down &feel like a Japanese school-girl/Haruhi character (similar thing, no?).

さようなら


I can't keep my anticipation under wraps for the unknown (to the masses) brands to launch under the wings of stores with reputations that precede them. Or pop up to tantalise my purchase passion.